Sunday, August 25, 2013

Getting reacquainted with my Juki MO 735 Serger

When I got my serger originally, I took the time to try all the various types of stitches as shown in my users manual. With scraps of fabric, I bought thread in the colors of the guides and threaded up the serger.

I'm not sure where I stuck those scraps (although I labeled the scraps themselves!) so I'm doing it over again. This time I'll also be making samples with the other feet that came with the serger. I'll be doing it in sections, since there's so many settings/types.

The first one is the 4-Thread overlock with Integrated Safety Seam

Opened to see the seam; no seam separation - GOOD!


Settings:
Tensions: 4 (All threads)
Cutting Width: 3
Differential: N
Stitch Length: 2.5

I've ironed the seam to set the stitches (although the picture on the right was before I ironed). Solid stitches with no seam separation so definitely usable for piecing on its own.

I think I could play with the looper tensions a bit more; the lower looper thread is showing a bit on the top side; either the top tension is too high or the bottom looper is a little to loose.




The bottom seam is the 4-Thread Overlock with Integrated Safety Stitch.  The top seam is where I used the same stitch, but set to gather.

Settings to gather:
Tension: 4 (All threads)
Cutting Width: 3
Differential: 2
Stitch Width: 4

This will provide a slight gathering with light medium weight woven fabric. When I increased the thread tension on the needle threads however, it gathered more (higher needle tension makes the thread shorter, hence more fabric to less thread distance (compared to leaving the tension the same).

Potentially usable for sleeve head easing, but must watch/manipulate how the fabric feeds, mine had a tendency to pull away from the knife so the edge had to be readjusted multiple times.

Durable seaming but probably not good for areas where I want a lot of stretch.

Jan Saunders - 4 Thread overlock stitch has the advantage of a safety stitch. If the seam line thread breaks, the second row of stitching prevents the seam allowances from raveling out.  

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