Sunday, July 7, 2013

Project in flight: Pencil skirt

Type: Skirt
Pattern: Diana Rupp's Naughty Secretary Skirt
Fabric:

  • Rayon Crepe-remnant (slightly less than 1 yd)
  • Poly Charmeuse-remnant (slightly more than 1 yd)
  • 1 regular zipper
Having just finished the muslin for a little boy's shirt (Simplicity 8543) for a friend, I wanted to make something for me.  I had found a lovely light rayon crepe with marvelous drape and paired it with a burgundy colored charmeuse for a lining.  It's sewn together, but I have the hem to do and I want to jazz it up.

I plan to add lace on top of the skirt in a pattern (attached directly to the rayon) to jazz it up a bit. As it's going to be added at the last, I want to finish all the rest of the construction and also mark the final hem length before I attach the lace. 

Construction steps:

  1. I put in the darts for both fashion fabric and lining. 
  2. Joined front to back pieces on the fashion fabric and lining. 
  3. Sewed the fashion fabric and lining together at the waist (right side together) and understitched. 
  4. Attached the back left and back right panel to the zipper for fashion fabric. And for lining. Sew
  5. Finished sewing the last 2" (right next to zipper) and turned lining in. 
  6. Sew rest of back seam.
  7. Still need to hem. Need to add lace.

Construction notes: 
  • I had a tough time cutting out the pattern due to the slinky nature of the rayon.  In the future I will 
    • copy out the full pattern so I don't have to fold the fabric (which was very tough)
    • sandwich the fabric using tissue on the bottom and the paper pattern on the top
  • I also did not add a bias tape waist band as called for in the pattern. I don't think it needs it since both fabrics together gives the skirt quite a bit of heft. 
  • Because the fabric was so slippery, I cut the lining extra big. I made the lining first in order to do a fitting.  
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